Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is packed with skin benefits—but how much should you really use?
While 2% to 5% is backed by studies for safe and effective use, high concentrations (15%-20%) may cause irritation and damage.
Learn what niacinamide does, who should use it, and why more isn’t always better in skincare.
What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that plays a crucial role in keeping your skin healthy. It’s known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to:
- Improve skin elasticity
- Enhance the skin barrier function
- Even out skin tone
- Diminish dullness
Because of these benefits, it’s found in many serums, moisturizers, and face creams.
Benefits of Niacinamide
When used in the right concentration, niacinamide offers several skin benefits:
- Improves skin elasticity: It helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by keeping the skin firm.
- Strengthens skin barrier: It locks in moisture, preventing dryness and irritation.
- Evens out skin tone: It helps fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation for a brighter complexion.
- Reduces inflammation: It calms redness and irritation, making it great for acne-prone and sensitive skin.
These effects are best achieved when niacinamide is used in the right concentration.
Recommended Concentrations
Studies suggest that 2% to 5% niacinamide is the ideal range for visible results without side effects. A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that a 4% niacinamide formulation significantly improved skin appearance with minimal irritation. (Source)
Potential Risks of High Concentrations
While niacinamide is generally safe, higher concentrations—such as 15% to 20%—may cause unwanted side effects:
- Redness and irritation: Too much niacinamide can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to irritation.
- Itching and burning: Some users report discomfort when using niacinamide at very high doses.
- Cell damage in high doses: A study found that extremely high doses of niacinamide could cause cell death, meaning that more is not always better. (Source)
Some companies sell serums with 15% or even 20% niacinamide, claiming “faster” results. However, research suggests that concentrations above 5% do not necessarily lead to better outcomes and may instead lead to irritation.
Who Should Use Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types, but it is especially helpful for:
- Oily skin: Controls excess sebum production, reducing breakouts.
- Dry skin: Strengthens the skin barrier to lock in moisture.
- Sensitive skin: Calms inflammation and reduces redness.
- Aging skin: Improves elasticity and reduces fine lines.
When Should You Start Using Niacinamide?
Most dermatologists suggest starting niacinamide in your early 20s to help maintain a healthy complexion and prevent early signs of aging. However, it’s never too late to add it to your routine.
Conclusion
Niacinamide is an incredible skincare ingredient, but more is not always better. While concentrations of 2% to 5% provide real benefits, higher doses (like 15%-20%) may lead to irritation and cell damage.
Next time you buy a niacinamide serum, check the label. Stick to scientifically-backed formulations for the safest and most effective results.
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